Views: 0 Author: Site Editor Publish Time: 2026-09-01 Origin: Site
Paying a dealer $500-$1,000 for final drive installation labor? With basic mechanical skills and the right tools, you can replace an excavator final drive yourself in 4-6 hours. This guide walks you through every step.
⚠️ Safety First: Always work on level ground with the machine properly supported. Never work under an unsupported excavator.
Socket set (metric, up to 36mm)
Torque wrench (capable of 300+ Nm)
Impact wrench (recommended for bolt removal)
Hydraulic jack or engine hoist (final drives weigh 80-200 kg)
Clean containers for gear oil
New gear oil (check your machine's spec)
Thread locker (medium strength)
Shop rags and degreaser
Park on flat, solid ground
Lower all attachments to the ground
Engage the safety lock
Release hydraulic pressure (operate all controls with engine off)
Disconnect the battery
On most excavators, you can access the final drive without fully removing the track, but you'll need to:
Release track tension by loosening the grease fitting
Remove the sprocket guard if present
Slide the track off the sprocket
Place a container under the final drive drain plug. Remove the fill plug first (to allow air in), then the drain plug. Let it drain completely. Inspect the drained oil for metal particles.
Clean around all hydraulic fittings thoroughly
Label each hose and its port (take photos!)
Cap all open hydraulic lines immediately to prevent contamination
Cap the motor ports on the final drive
Support the final drive with a jack or hoist — these are heavy!
Remove all mounting bolts (typically 16-20 bolts)
Carefully separate the final drive from the track frame
Clean the mounting surface thoroughly
Apply anti-seize compound to the mounting surface
Position the new final drive on the track frame
Insert all mounting bolts hand-tight, then torque in a cross pattern
Reconnect hydraulic lines to matching labeled ports
Reinstall the track and tension it properly
Fill through the upper port until oil reaches the check plug level
Use the manufacturer-specified gear oil (typically 80W-90 or TO10)
Replace both fill and check plugs
Start the engine and let it idle for 5 minutes
Cycle all hydraulic functions to purge air
Slowly operate the track in both directions
Listen for unusual noises
Check for leaks at all fittings
Re-check mounting bolt torque after 8 hours of operation
❌ Forgetting to cap hydraulic lines → contamination destroys the new final drive
❌ Uneven bolt torque → causes oil leaks and premature wear
❌ Wrong gear oil → check your manual for the correct specification
❌ Not purging air from the hydraulic system → erratic track movement
Check out our video library for real installation demonstrations on CAT, Komatsu, and Hitachi models.
